Mission: Tanzania: Zanzibar or Bust

It will be really difficult to describe in words how fantastic Zanzibar was. Even the pictures don’t do it justice. I will try and give a rundown of the weekend but you will have to use your imagination to really make it come alive to even come close to how it was to be there. There really is no question, I must go back, I didn’t even get to do nearly everything I wanted to (partly due to the torrential rainstorm that took over Sunday but also because there is so much left to see.

Our trip started on Friday, we took the ferry, aptly named the Kilimanjaro, which takes about 2 hours to cross the water to Zanzibar. Although I was warned of rough waters, it was a smooth crossing. It was rather windy, as you can probably tell from the picture (not the best shot but for pure entertainment purposes I thought it should be on the blog). As we arrived the sun was setting over Stone Town. This is a magnificent sight, especially from the hotel I stayed at, the Africa House, which has a perfect view of the water.

Blown away before I even got there!

View of Stone Town from the Ferry

Sunset over the water. View from the Ferry

Since it was almost dinner time, a quick drink at the hotel bar was swiftly followed by a visit to Forodhani Market where we gorged ourselves on barracuda and shark (!) as well as falafel and Zanzibar pizza which is really nothing like ordinary pizza and is truly phenomenal. The barracuda and shark was also quite delicious. I think it was the shark that was the most meaty of the two but both are very meaty and quite filling. As you can see from the pictures, there was an abundance of yummy delights and there is no other option for me but to go back because I did not even come close to eating all that I wanted to! Also note the sugar cane press. This was used to make a delectable drink of sugar cane ginger and lime. A little sweet for my taste but with a little extra lime, quite manageable and very refreshing as they pour it over ice. There I am holding my glass of it next to the Zanzibar pizza being made. Just the memory of that pizza is making my taste buds tingle. Yum.

Sugar cane juice, Olaf's favorite

Look at the size of those claws (and tentacles)

He was really proud of this crab

Awkward picture with the Zanzibar pizza maker

On Saturday we went into Stone Town and wandered around somewhat aimlessly most of the day, which was wonderful. We hopped into several little shops. Noticeable is that there appear to be several initiatives to help women in Zanzibar. One of these initiatives is Moto which has a little shop with all hand-made products made by Zanzibari women to help them earn a living in a safe and supportive environment. This is where I got my Kikoi. A Kikoi is the male version of a Kanga but it is much softer and more comfortable than a Kanga so I had to have one! I don’t have a picture of it but I’m certain it will pop up in the blog at some point because I’m pretty sure I’ll be living in it from now on!

The nice woman I got my Kikoi from

Some of the crafts made by Moto

Moto policy

the opposition is noticeably stronger here

The House of Wonders

I’m sure everyone has seen pictures of the Zanzibar doors or a Zanzibar chest. The carvings are incredibly intricate and somewhat breathtaking. My brother (Thomas) can attest to the doors' dangerous nature, I think he still may have the scar. We were able to visit a warehouse where they hand-make Zanzibar chests and Zanzibar beds and to see the work that goes into this is quite incredible. The craftsmanship is timeless. This felt like a truly authentic experience. We also got to chat with the owner of the shop and warehouse and basically met the entire family; the matriarch, 2 sisters and a brother. It was really fun as we helped them with their English and they assisted us with some Kiswahili.

Me, infront of a Zanzibar door

Zanzibar Door

Beautiful hand-crafted wood carving

After our tour of the warehouse, we went to have a quick lunch at monsoon, a beautiful little lunch spot where you can sit outside under an awning of vines and flowers. The food was good too but the ice cold water was heavenly as it had gotten seriously hot. After lunch, we went inside the old Arab Fort grounds. The fort, named Ngome Kongwe in local language, was constructed between 1698 and 1701 by the Busaidi group of Amani Arabs. It was originally used as protection against the Portuguese and the Mazrui, who controlled Mombasa at that time. In the 19^th century, the fort was used as a prison and apparently criminals were both punished and executed there. Very ghostly. Clearly I did not know this at the time and I am laughing and having a wonderful time in the pictures. Had I known there were ghosts looming, I might have put on a more serious face. You don’t want to anger the spirits. Apparently nowadays the space is used as an open theatre and there are little craft shops all along the side- very touristy with special Mzungu prices if you catch my drift.

Obviously, I'm dancing with the ghosts in the Old Fort

Craft stands in the Old Fort

After some more dilly-dallying around, we headed back to the hotel to prep for dinner. We went to dinner at 236 Hurumzi, the old Emerson and Green hotel. This is the second highest roof in Stone Town and has a magnificent view of the city and the water from its rooftop restaurant. You can either get comfortable among plenty of plush pillows on the floor or choose to sit at a table. You couldn’t pay me to sit at a table when there are an abundance of soft pillows on the floor to sit on. We got there just before sunset and were able to see the sun set over the city, a really breathtaking view. I cannot recommend this place enough. It was reasonably priced and the food, although somewhat of a fixed menu (at least two choices per course) was fantastic and the service was impeccable. I couldn’t have asked for a nicer evening. The company wasn’t bad either! Although clearly this is already a perfect night in the making, it was only improved by the presence of some local musicians and a local dancer that was, for lack of a better word, captivating. She would look at the men and just stare at them with her eyes, very medusa-ish as she swirled her hips in a somewhat unnatural looking motion. I’m pretty sure none of us left there feeling quite the same again. She was a great sport though and as soon as the music stopped she smiled and shook my hand (and she let me take a picture).

At 236 Hurumzi with view of Stone Town

Sunset over Stone Town

Do not stare into her eyes

The musicians and plush pillows

It’s a good thing we walked around all day Saturday. Although we had plans to wander around some more and actually visit the Sultan’s palace and maybe the House of Wonders, those plans were rained out. It seems like as soon as we stepped out of the hotel, the skies opened and although it appeared a light drizzle for the first few minutes, it very quickly turned into a downpour epic proportions. I’m sure this will be occurring more often as we are about to enter the short rain season. Clearly short rain is not describing the length of each downpour but is instead describing the length the season lasts because the rain did not stop until we got on the boat around 3:30 pm. Although we tried to wander around a little when it lightened up, this was really difficult as you got drenched as soon as you stepped in the road. So instead, we had some Zanzibar spiced tea and orange and almond cake and enjoyed watching the rain.

Rain

More rain

And....more rain

Toilet paper truck had to be unloaded in the rain

As I said, as soon as we got on the boat, it stopped raining. Apparently it was also not raining in Dar and as we docked back in my new hometown, I was able to capture the sun setting on the city. A really nice way to end a fantastic weekend. Like I said before, there is no question I have to go back since I did not get to see/do everything I wanted to. Next time, I will be visiting the beaches to snorkel, going to Jozani Forest to see the monkeys and visiting the Sultan’s Palace. And lest we forget, a trip to Zanzibar would be a complete waste if you do not go by Forodhani Market every time you go. Enjoy the pictures J